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  • Grant Edwards

'Locked and Loaded' Pete Dawson does the project.

On the 10th of April during the 'lockdown' I blogged about a possible link up for strong folk on the Chimpanzee Acne roof. Check it out here.

https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/post/chimpanzee-acne-roof-topo-and-open-project-for-wads

Pete Dawson returned to spend the 'lockdown' in North Devon. Pete has been busy making headlines elsewhere in the UK and overseas with some rare repeats of sport routes such as the 8th ascent of the infamous Ben Moon route 'Hubble' 9a and Steve McClure's 'Rainshadow' 9a at Malham Cove to name a couple.


Pete has been using some of his time at home, to get some training in on his home wall.

With outdoor climbing back on Pete headed down to Lynmouth and reports that he has done the project on the Chimpanzee Acne Roof. According to Pete Locked and Loaded weighs in at around f7c+. The problem extends the start into and finishes up Walker Kearney's roof into desperate mantle 'It Ain't Over Til It's Over' f7c.


See Pete's ascent and instagram post here https://www.instagram.com/p/CBYpf-UjU3t/

The conditions in this zawn are the best I have seen for several years. Due to the dry weather seepage from above has dried up. Get to it folks, there are some great problems in this zawn from 6b upwards and plenty burly action in the 7s.


Is there more to go at in this area? Well yes there is the possibility of a direct mantle finish straight over the lip between It Ain't Over 'Til It's Over and No More Nails. It has spat all suitors do date and awaits a mantle master with triceps bigger than biceps!

Another challenge is Neil's Roof the high roof right at the back of the zawn, to my knowledge it remains unrepeated, it seems the top out is quite spicey.


Locked and Loaded climbs Half Shark, Half Aligator, Half Man (green) to finish up It Ain't Over 'Til It's Over (red).


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