Really good to see various local teams have been getting out and about bouldering on the Exmoor Coast recently. Chalky traces of activity all over the place. There are still new gems out there to be found and climbed for those keen on exploring/developing..
First up and most recently developed myself and Mathieu Burtschell aka @nature.mercenary explored a couple of boulders west of Lynmouth. These are rarely affected by the tide and are a conveniently short boulder hop from end of the sea front car park. Ideal if you want a session when the tide is in and you're pushed for time.
Photo: Kid Starver bloc (back) and French Flair bloc (foreground).
On the bloc closest to the car park a couple of problems at amenable grades.
Photo: Sir Kid Starver - 6b - Sit start as far left as you can, traverse rightwards for a couple of moves and then mantle for the love of neoliberalism!
On the seaward face of the same bloc.
Photo: 10 Pledges - 6a+ - Obvious R to L traverse of the boulder, follow the line of features, starting with your right hand in the slot, a big move up and left at the end of the features leads to the top out.
Photo: French Flair - 6a+ - Middle of the slab. Sitting start, left hand undercuts, right hand sloping hold. Use technique and a little flair to get established on the easy slab (3+ from standing).
Anthropocene - 7a - Sitting start to the right arete. Technical, tricky and fingery climbing up the arete allows entry to a finish up the left side of the arete. Mathieu has repeated it with better beta, sent me a video as I type. The difficulty is in working out which holds to use and how to use them! (The arete can be climbed from standing on it's left at 3+ and on it's right at 4+ ish).
Unfortunately the seaward face of this bloc is marred by a serious case of chossyitus and feels akin to playing Russian Roulette. There are definite possibilities for the brave/stupid!
Photo: Mathieu showing some French Flair.
Photo: Towards the end of the crux on Anthropocene.
In June a big team headed out west for the evening Dave (@davgwyn) providing much energy and psyche pointed the team at a highball buttress that can be found between Notre Dame/Pie Consumption/Visions of Anarchy and the Giza/Eye of the Storm area. I arrived late to warm up on these 2 belting new problems put up by the team.
Photo: Seal of Approval - 6b - Jason led the way from a low start on the left of arete to gain good holds and the bold slab above. Don't fall off!
Carrion of the Coast - 6b - Dave added a start coming in from the right wall to join Seal for the bold finish. (Fortunately there is an easy decent down the corner to the left).
Photo (Dave Gwyn): Seal of Approval 6b.
Earlier in the year, way out east beyond The Odyssey, towards Sillery Sands, Kyle Whitehand found the beach levels perfect for a highball line.
Photo (KyleWhitehand) - The Undertow 7a+ - highball.
Back in 2015 I found friendly beach levels here and climbed the stepped arete to the right of of Kyle on it's right hand side. Ephemeral 6c - A steady highball when the beach levels are good.
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