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  • Writer's pictureGrant Edwards

Chimpanzee Acne Roof Topo and Open Project for Wads!

There has been a little confusion around what goes where on this roof.. So here's a little update, a new link up I did from a while back and a good hard project for when we're all free again. An excellent selection of burly steep 7s and maybe something harder?

The weather spell we're experiencing is perfect for this roof, that suffers from seepage above, a couple of weeks of dry weather and summer evening sunshine is the perfect combo.

The beach height can vary dramatically to make everything highball or an amenable height for those of us that are less bold.

Purple - Shrewd. 7a - Sit start in slot, big move up to small crimps in thin quartz band, slap into break and finish direct.

Pink - Chimpanzee Acne. 7a - Start at back of roof and out through the big break, move left into pocket (you can match it), swing left across and up through quartz band/ prow.

Blue - No More Nails. 7b - Start as for Chimpanzee Acne, don't move left through the pocket, finish direct!

Red - It Ain't Over 'til It's Over. 7c - Visiting Walker Kearney solved the desperate mantel that starts as for Chimpanzee Acne/ No More Nails, this time don't finish direct move right along the lip to mantel it on it's right.

Green - Half Shark, Half Alligator, Half Man. 7c - Start up Shrewd don't use the top of the boulder, move right and reverse through Chimpanzee Acne, to the big break in the roof and then top out up No More Nails. Good bit of power endurance. (I was trying this from a lower start when the beach levels were low that may add half a grade or so, a busted ankle stopped play!).

Project - Start up Shrewd, reverse Chimpanzee as per Half Shark and continue on and up It Ain't Over Until It's Over.

Video of Chimpanzee Acne and No More Nails (with a friendly beach level!).

Video of Walker on the first ascent here. (Friendly beach level again).

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