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  • Writer's pictureGrant Edwards

One for beasts and one for mortals.

Photo: Summer evening sunshine looking across Sillery Sands to Foreland Point from Lynmouth East.

With the lock down loosened and the freedom to get outdoors Lynmouth East is a great venue for summer afternoons and evenings. At this time of year (north facing) Lynmouth East gets the sun throughout the afternoon and into the evening. The sun speeds the drying out of the rocks as the tide retreats and the sun sets over the sea are epic. Here's a couple of 3 star problems that should be on your list if they aren't already.

One for the beasts.

Problem: No More Nails Grade: Font 7b First Ascent: Mikey Cleverdon @blochobbit

Style: Burly Roof into Slopers.

Perfect for catching a bit of evening summer sun, steep roof climbing leads to a slopey lip, better holds up and left await.

Photo: Kyle Whitehand @kylewhitehand Soaking up the evening glow on No More Nails.

One for Mortals

Problem: Dave Cross Roof Grade: Font 6b First Ascent: David Cross @padstar_holds

Style: Steep and burly, a little bit high, big holds!

At first glance it looks like it should be 8b, it's super steep but the good holds keep coming, bring pads, spotters and keep your nerve. You'll look like a hero and feel like a hero one of the best 6b problems around.

Photo: Ruby Petch @ruby_climb Being a hero on the Dave Cross Roof.

Watch out for the next blog coming soon with news of Lynmouth East's first 8th grade problem and yet more link ups/new problems on the Chimpanzee Acne Roof.

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Jun 16, 2020

Is the Dave Cross roof thing just before the chimpanzee acne cave?

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