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  • Writer's pictureGrant Edwards

FA of Anarchy Arete Right

The Anarchy boulder is impressive, the obvious highball arete is gob smacking and should be considered as an ultra classic must do block. If it's within your grade range and you're brave, even if you're not, you have to go do it! Having been tipped off, Dave Westlake swiftly picked this plum by starting on the right hand side and swinging to the left after the initial moves.

In April 2019 the old school linked up with the new school to see if the arete would go totally on it's right side. Myself @brutusthebear and Mikey Cleverdon @blochobbit joined the talented youngsters Kyle Whitehand @kylewhitehand and Ruby Petch @ruby_petch. Still in recovery from a broken ankle I played the role of spotter/ cheerleader. The other 3 took a look on a rope and sussed out the moves, a committing sequence up high was doable. The rope was pulled Kyle led the way, Ruby and Mikey followed suit. Another ultra classic on this boulder, probably still awaiting a ground up ascent.

To locate the block you will need to boulder hop to the west from the end of the sea front car park in Lynmouth. The tide will need to be far enough out for you to pass points where the sea can and will cut you off! You will pass good boulders on the way (more info. on these is to come) including the non-tidal platform where the 'Giza' boulder sits, Anarchy is the obvious big monolith in the next bay. There is an alternative route in from above, accessed off the coast path, which is very useful should the sea prevent you from heading back along the beach. (If you use this path check yourself for ticks especially if it's been wet and warm).

Watch this space for updated topos for Lynmouth West, in the meantime use the Original Lynmouth bouldering guide for further information.

Cheers Brutus :)

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